Flora
Being in the tropics always provokes garden envy for us. We look at the gardens around us and daydream about what we'd grow if we lived here. We'd be sure to plant as many ornamental palms and flowering trees as we could. We're always a bit amazed, though, that many tropical gardens lack food crops. Why not base the entire garden around edibles? What on the Mother earth is more beautiful than a mango tree? Or a lemon tree? Or avocado and papaya trees?
This house is wonderful, but the garden lacks magic. When we were here two years ago we noticed a few baby palm trees that seemed so sad right at the front of our garden. Upon our return it was most shocking to see that those same baby trees had not grown much and looked pitiful. How could that even be possible that these trees had not grown? We decided to try to help these little trees by doing some guerilla gardening- saving our compostibles then layering them with grass clippings as mulch for these dear, neglected trees who are so obviously suffering from a serious nitrogen deficiency. I worry that if I were to stay in this town long enough I would follow the trash man who rides a horse around town in order to collect its manure for these trees. The locals would see me- some deranged foreign woman- slyly scooping horse shit into a plastic grocery bag with a stick. Luckily we're leaving soon so it won't get to that point.
Fauna
A few nights ago a rat crawled onto my arm, then onto my hair, then jumped behind my pillow onto the floor as I was sleeping. I could feel its little soft paws and the disgusting swish of its tail. I woke up, startled beyond words, and saw it disappear into the night. Somehow I went back to sleep after that, but I felt violated by the rat- and still do. The rat crossed a line of common decency and decorum that we cave dwellers must respect. Strangely, earlier that day, we'd been reliving our favorite scenes from Tom and Jerry from when we were kids. Was it serendipitous then that I had a rat encounter that night? Are rat encounters ever serendipitous?
We bought a sticky rat trap at the supermercado. We'd hoped to find the old fashioned wooden and metal kind that are time tested (and cartoonish), but the sticky ones are the only kind of trap they sell. We set the trap strategically in a corner with crackers as bait. Sometime during the night the rat came to the trap, ate the crackers, but did not get stuck onto the adhesive. We tried peanut butter on the trap the next night, but that didn't work either. We've positioned a garden rake next to the rat trap in anticipation of bludgeoning the rat to death once we catch it- a more humane death has yet to present itself to our imaginations. Lest you think I'm a blood hungry lunatic, once when we were traveling in India a rat came into our room and ate holes in all of my clothes. Being a backpacker, I didn't have many clothes to choose from so it was especially egregious. I mended what I could, but some were beyond repair and had to be retired after the trip. And once, at home, we had a rat eat a hole in the gas line of our truck. We could have easily gone down in a ball of flames that day, and the mechanic insisted someone was trying to sabotage and kill us. We later realized that the culprit was a rat. All of this to say that rats have earned their place at the top of my most wanted list.
I'm sleeping with one eye open, staying constantly vigilant, imagining worst case scenarios of going to the health clinic with a rat bite (does The Plauge still infect rats?), and then being stuck awake each night with adoption induced insomnia. And we still haven't caught the damn rat yet.
El Pasado
The other day Babba was walking with Dew Drop home from the village center when he came face to face with some serious ugliness. A mean old man along the way engaged Babba and asked who the little girl was. Babba said, "Mija." The man let loose a torrent of words telling Babba that he's living a lie. The language and accusations flowed forth so quickly that Babba became confused. Babba knew there were phrases such as "she's not your flesh and blood" mixed in to the cauldron of insults. No matter what the old man was saying it was pure hatred. It's upsetting to find yourself face to face with this kind of stupidity. Thankfully nothing like this has ever happened here to us before. Sure, we've had some intense stares from people who are trying to figure out our family dynamic- though that's just par for the course when you're a conspicuous family traveling abroad- but we've never had anything this blatant and rude said before. Dew Drop remains temporarily immune from understanding this level of despicable attitude, but not for much longer.
We spent the remainder of the afternoon discussing what it is that makes people feel so threatened by those who aren't like themselves, and why is anger the emotion that's stimulated rather than benign curiosity? How could this man feel so self righteous as to accost a father walking down the street with his young daughter? Isn't anything sacred? We tried to reassure ourselves that the kind of hatred this man carries in his heart is destined to become part of the past- that the future of humanity depends on us all opening our hearts- but we worry that it's not happening fast enough. Or not at all.
Futuro
One of our daily rituals is walking to the beach each day. We walk through the main village that is either bustling or either not bustling- depending on whether or not it's siesta time. We then wind our way down a red dirt road, and we pass the same houses and families each day. There's always a grandmother sitting underneath a shade tree. There's a bright blue house that always has its colorful laundry hung out to dry on their barbed wire fence. There are kids that used to only peek at us from behind trees but who now boldly present themselves to us. We see horses, goats, fighting cocks with their legs bound together with zip ties, mangy cats napping in the shade, a giant mango tree with a brown pig tied to its base, hens with baby chicks and many dogs who all look to be somehow related. The walk to the beach is one of the highlights of our day.
The other day the kids on this road had a tiny puppy with them. The little pup couldn't have been more than a few weeks old. The pup was chasing and nipping at the kids' heels as they ran. A teenage girl leaned on the fence post nearby pretending not to be amused. When we stopped the pup let out a series of desperate whimpers to be held. After a while we ambled on down the road with Dew Drop, and we commented on how little we're interpreting the language barrier for her these days. She understands almost everything said to her in Spanish. Dew Drop walked on with a poise and a confidence that says she understands this language, this place, this earth, and what this life is all about. Since the day with the little pup when we see this group of kids they treat Dew Drop like an old friend. They tell us to wait right there until they go fetch up more of their friends and relations to introduce her to -like she's a foreign dignitary traveling the country roads in order to exchange smiles with every kid within a 100 mile radius.
8 comments:
Yikes, the rat AND the mean man? Too, too much icky. Not much one can to do stop random loonies on the street in any corner of the globe. Who knows what personal demons are behind his hate? As for the rat - you are brave. I saw one in a shed at my house and couldn't sleep for weeks. I am an anti-gun pacifist who stopped eating mammals in 1986, and I would not hesitate to bludgeon that little fecker without mercy. He's left you no choice really. It is self defense.
And I love the image of Dew Drop traveling the world to exchange smiles. Aww!
Bilingual family!!! you will laugh at Nanee with her Spanish CD in the car, repeating words!! Glad I'll get some real help soon.
Thanks for sharing these parts of your life! They all have a special place that make the experience all the more magical. I was going to email you today...so odd that you wrote about the rat. I totally had a rat dream last night...there were two or three but they had shorter tails than the grotesque one that slid by your face...O.M.G. I just don't know if I could do it. You are a strong lady!
I love the description of your walk to the beach...and the pride and dignity of DD in her land...b/c all land needs to be hers. And damn, that rat! Crawling on you...holy cripes. And that old man...I'm glad you took away from that what you did. Removing yourself to some extent of his hate and recognizing it for what it is. And I join you in hoping that it will be in the past for good. That somehow his hate decreased even if just a little today.
Theresa
Wow....my mind of full of thoughts from being able to experiences these 4 parts with you. such a rich experience and in such different ways....the good and bad, beautiful and ugly. Thank you for sharing all of it....safe travels!
I can't sleep. Was digging through internet land for something entertaining. So glad you posted this. It was just the perfect piece of reading! ;) The rat parts made me burst into snorts of midnight laughter. The rest made me think. It was wonderful. Like you guys are.
Totally with you on the rats & the critter/human divide. Mine was when a rat was dining a little too regularly on my garden; one butternut squash gone I could handle, but not *all* of them. If you’re feeling industrious, there are homemade poison recipes on the web, made with baking soda or plaster. Didn’t get a chance to try them as my rat showed up on my doorstep, was ill, and died within hours of my throwing a box over top of it.
And people like your mean man…painful…so much harder to bear when your child is on the cusp of understanding.
This man was beyond inappropriate to hurl insults, especially in front of your child. He does not know the whole story. I believe his pain is coming from a real place, though, a place that is very difficult for white people to understand, even the most conscientious and compassionate and determined. I wish people would sit down and talk with each other and practice deep listening instead of lashing out. I know this is idealistic, but I'm not sure what else can help. I am sorry your family had this very rattling experience. It must be really hard.
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